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Service Traction control, trailer brake, and 4WD...

cdsons

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This is cross posted on another forum as well, but I went to start my truck today and out of nowhere I got all three of these messages popping up at once. Everything runs and drives fine so I am scratching my head. Just a glitch perhaps, I am going to unhook the battery tomorrow and let it sit for a while. If that doesn't work do any of y'all have any ideas as my warranty has long since expired. 2020 Eco 125K miles...
 

wrxified

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Yes. It’s the front axle 4wd actuator causing the issue. Just had the exact same issue.

Part is 68399418AA. There are several threads on this. Some people fix it simply by disconnecting and reconnecting the actuator. It did nothing for me. Dealer replacement fixed the issue.

My guess is everything probably seems fine with yours but if you start trying to shift into 4wd high or 4wd auto you’ll notice that the light flashes for each one of those and never makes the actual switch. That and your traction control is likely disabled and you can’t enable it. It typically encounters a series of gremlins that are different.



The dealer will likely do some basic troubleshooting. One thing I saw as a note on the work order is they measure resistance on circuit G303 between the DTCM and actuator. It should read 3.0 ohms. Mine was reading .4 ohms so they knew it was bad. I don’t know the details on how or where to measure that circuit but if you are technically inclined maybe you could do this. That or just replace the actuator and be done with it. It’s been the reason for these 3 codes on nearly every persons truck that I’ve seen.
 

cdsons

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Yes. It’s the front axle 4wd actuator causing the issue. Just had the exact same issue.

Part is 68399418AA. There are several threads on this. Some people fix it simply by disconnecting and reconnecting the actuator. It did nothing for me. Dealer replacement fixed the issue.

My guess is everything probably seems fine with yours but if you start trying to shift into 4wd high or 4wd auto you’ll notice that the light flashes for each one of those and never makes the actual switch. That and your traction control is likely disabled and you can’t enable it. It typically encounters a series of gremlins that are different.



The dealer will likely do some basic troubleshooting. One thing I saw as a note on the work order is they measure resistance on circuit G303 between the DTCM and actuator. It should read 3.0 ohms. Mine was reading .4 ohms so they knew it was bad. I don’t know the details on how or where to measure that circuit but if you are technically inclined maybe you could do this. That or just replace the actuator and be done with it. It’s been the reason for these 3 codes on nearly every persons truck that I’ve seen.
Just out of curiosity was your actuator covered under the 5/100 warranty? Not that it matters in my case, but I was just wondering.
 

wrxified

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Good Lord. 6 months and 8200 miles later and my light popped on again. Cannot shift to 4 wheel anything and have no traction control or cruise control. 3 trips to the dealer in 6 months. I’d almost rather get waterboarded than keep doing this. Even covered under warranty this is tiring. I can’t imagine what I’d be doing if this was costing me money.
 

Gren71

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Id double check the health of your battery. Though Im sure @wrxified is probably correct given the personal experience, on most FCA vehicles Ive had I ALWAYS got random errors and warnings when my battery was on the way out.
 

cdsons

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I ordered the actuator off of Rock Auto and did it myself. Stabbing the new one back proved to be a headache but after doing it once, if I had t o do it again it would take me probably 20 minutes start to finish.
 

outdoor7or24

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I ordered the actuator off of Rock Auto and did it myself. Stabbing the new one back proved to be a headache but after doing it once, if I had t o do it again it would take me probably 20 minutes start to finish.

Any photos or details you can share? I may be doing this soon.
 

cdsons

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Any photos or details you can share? I may be doing this soon.
No photos, if you have ramps I would use them just to give you some working room under the front. It's pretty cut and dry just unplug the electrical connection, then I believe it was just four bolts either 10 or 12mm if I recall correctly. Once you get the bolts out the old actuator should wiggle out without many problems. You will lose some oil from your front differential so be prepared to add some once the new one is installed. Stabbing the new one was a PITA, you have to hold your mouth just right but I promise it will go, then you just torque the bolts down till their tight ( I didn't use a torque wrench I just went by feel ) plug the electrical connector back in and then try it out to make sure it works. I don't know your mileage but if your gonna add fluid to the front diff it might be a good time to drain the old out and replace it while you're down there. The diff plugs are 8mm Allen heads. On edit, I dropped my skid plate to do it, I don't recall if it was totally necessary you might want to look at that.
 

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